taormina, sicilia
Over the summer we were lucky enough to make our first trip down to Sicily, the largest island of Italy (also worth noting it’s earliest evidence of human existence dates back to 12,000 B.C.). A highlight of our time spent there was a quick afternoon spent in the comune of Taormina, an ancient city known for it’s baroque architecture, and more recently the setting for Season 2 of White Lotus.
“comune” = town in general American terms
Listen, when you’re traveling with a toddler, and you’re a Type A mom like me on a strict nap schedule (it’s me, again…hi) you learn how to make the most of your time wandering around Europe - so an afternoon into dinnertime can be enough! As glamorous and expensive as it is quaint and dreamy, you can feel the Greek influence of this ancient Sicilian city from its cuisine to its people. Below are some realistic tips, if you find yourself traveling the area, because it’s absolutely worth the hype it gets…
Taormina aka “The Amalfi Coast of Sicily”
Getting There
Catania Airport (CTA) is about a 55 minute drive south of Taormina. It’s a relatively compact airport, has car rental services on the premises, and was not too difficult to navigate with a toddler in tow.
Parking
The Porta Catania parking garage was super easy to find when driving in from the south and was just a few steps away from the arched gateway into the city and Corsa Umberto.
There are a couple other garages on the other ends of the town. Just note that it’s a very very hilly area with no parking close within the city streets so these garages and bus routes are your best option for getting there.
Central Location
Corso Umberto is the pedestrian street running straight through the ancient city and is the best central location for all sightseeing, restaurants and shopping. While we didn’t stay overnight in Taormina, any hotel or Airbnb along this path is ideal.
Toddler Carry
I’ll say this for every city in Italy - do not bother traveling with a stroller! Between the cobblestones, steps, and the fact that these cities are thousands of years old… they just weren’t designed for your UPPAbaby. I highly recommend a travel backpack like this one. Plenty of storage for extra nappies and snacks - plus they love having the best view.
Where to Eat (with a toddler*)
*While there are dozens of different or better places to find, these are where we got lucky during our spontaneous afternoon trip.
Cena: La Scala
It’s worth noting that many Italian restaurants do not start serving dinner until at least 7pm. This can be a bit of a hurdle when your kid goes to bed at 7:30pm. So! It was pure luck that we found this spot, with a super instagramable entrance, and kicked off dinner at 6pm (what!!!). We had the seafood linguine, the fresh catch, and an oyster that I’m pretty sure someone had just scooped from the Ionian Sea.
And our daughter, the Italian she is, had a lovely fresh pistachio gnocchi. Every toddler’s dream.
Dolci: Bam Bar
Any travel guide will tell you that while you’re in Sicily you have to try Granita, a light and fluffy treat made from fresh fruits or nuts blended with frozen water. Bam Bar is the pinnacle of this fresh treat, as they are one of the few that do not use any artificial ingredients. Their lemon (hello, Sicilian lemons) and pistachio (the only region that produces them in Italy) are the absolute must-trys and worth waiting in line for.
Must See Moments
Fontana di Piazza Duomo: 17th century baroque marble fountain in the same square as Duomo di Taormina
Every alley way and step-by-step walking path to your left and right. There are so many little side streets to get lost on (thank God you packed that toddler hiking backpack, right?)
Chiesa di San Giuseppe is easily one of the most perfect, pastel little 17th century churches we’ve seen here, and our daughter’s favorite dance spot.
Piazza IX Aprile is the main square across from Chiesa di San Giuseppe which also has the same watercolour vibe and gorgeous views overlooking the Ionian Sea.
The Greek Theatre (Teatro Antico di Taormina), which was built on a literal cliff in the 3rd century B.C. It is about a 25 minute walk along Corso Umberto from the Porta Catania parking garage and through that walk you will hit every major shop along the way - perfetto.
The Best Souvenirs (other than photos)
Coffa Bags: The traditional Sicilian basket bag that can be found authentic and in replica, in a variety of shapes, colors and sizes (and budgets)
Soaps and Perfumes: Acqua di Taormina is everywhere, sparkling from windows along Corso Umberto. It’s signature citrus and sea scent is the perfect way to bring Taormina home with you
Handmade Sandals: Widely popular all over Sicily, but you can find the best Italian shops in Taormina. Shoemakers will measure the sole and straps perfectly to your foot, arch and color preferences and make them on the spot. Super cute and will last a lifetime.
