the dolomites, italy
Maybe it was because our moving to Italy happened so fast or maybe it was because the whole thing was planned in the spring of 2020 (when the world shut down, need I say more?) - but it never dawned on me we’d be living a couple hours south of the Italian Alps.
The Dolomites, Italy’s mountain range located in the Northeastern corner of the country bordering Austria, is a waking dream. When many people think of Italy, they imagine the Amalfi Coast, Rome, history, heat, beaches. But just a quick drive north from our home you gradually see the landscape change to rolling green hills covered in dairy cow and sheep farms. Architecture starts to look more of Austrian and German influence. Signs for “trattoria” are blended with establishments ending in “haus". Even the FM radio reflects that we’ve arrived somewhere new. But we’re still in Italy, right??
Ortisei (Urtijëi), South Tyrol
The first town we ever visited was Ortisei (Urtijëi) in October 2020. Ortisei is located in South Tyrol and a municipality of Val Gardena, a chain of mountains in the alps. Imagine going to an actual gingerbread house village. That’s Urtijëi. This place doesn’t even seem real, it’s that cute. Every detail, every balcony banister dripping in ornate wooden carvings and candy color painted hotels, cafes, bars. I couldn’t help looking like the most obvious and embarrassing tourist when we were there, I was in awe of how adorable this place is. Easily accessible to the lifts from it’s main street, it’s no wonder that it’s one of the top tourist destinations in the area.
Languages spoke in the area: Ladin, German, Italian and a little English
Learn More: About Ortisei and Val Gardena
Marmolada, Rocca Pietore
We returned to the alps the second time in December of 2021 so my husband could fly down a mountain for his birthday. Nicknamed “The Queen of the Dolomites,” Marmolada is the highest peak of the alps at almost 11,000’ elevation. We arrived the second weekend of ski season, and drove through some other notable ski towns along the way, including Alleghe, which we’d like to visit this year. One of the most amazing things about skiing the Italian alps is the organization of all the lifts. It’s not like you venture up, ski one area, and leave. The lift system here includes 450 different lifts across 15 ski resorts. It can carry you across most of the entire alps mountain chain from start to finish with plenty of bars and restaurants up top along the way.
It’s worth noting that this stay was the first time we traveled overnight with our daughter, so naturally I was super calm (nope!) We were so lucky with our accommodations, staying at a family run inn nestled in the valley between Marmolada and Arraba. Sprinkled through every ski village are the most charming chalets and apartment hotels, typically family owned, many including a small kitchen and locker access for your stay. It’s normal to be nervous with a baby/toddler while traveling, and while I’ve never experienced travel with her stateside, what I will say is that everywhere we go in Italy we are given the warmest welcome with our little girl - no matter what mood she is in at the time.
This will be a trend in most that I share about our time starting a family in Italy. Italians love babies. Not just the mamas, not just the Nonni, everyone. Tutti.
Souvenirs: Wood carving and ironwork among the most popular trades and souvenirs
Languages spoke in the area: Ladin, German, Italian and a little English
Learn More: Dolomiti Superski
Naturhotel Lüsnerhof, South Tyrol
Our third time (we can’t get enough), was back to South Tyrol to celebrate our wedding anniversary and take a belated honeymoon. So naturally, we chose to spend a 5 days in what can only be described as Narnia.
Naturhotel Lüsnerhof is a wellness hotel located in the heart of the Dolomites. Driving there is a lot of flat roads until suddenly at the last minute you’re winding, winding, winding straight up for the last 20 minutes of the drive and land in what can only be described as an alpine winter oasis. And like most places in the area, surrounded by a farm and ski lifts…and nothing else.
These people take wellness seriously. There are dozens of wellness hotels similar to this one throughout the Dolomites. And not in a trendy, goop-y way. It’s just a part of life that is prioritized that we, silly Americans, have never (never…) come close to. And trust me, I love a spa but this place was like nothing I’ve ever experienced. Family owned, the friendliest of a team welcoming you upon arrival, speaking mostly German (but also a little English and Italian). Over a dozen different types of saunas, steamrooms, infrared chambers and underground Quarzit salt grotto for you to privately experience with your partner. Each one tied to nature and more unique than the next. Panoramic outdoor heated pools surrounded by snow. We even had a sauna in our room… Someone bring me my baby, I’m never leaving! As we drove away from the most relaxing week of our lives, our pores were clearer than the day we were born and we felt like we were leaving another planet.
Warning: Most wellness hotels in this area are clothing optional (have fun!)
Instagram: @naturhotel_luesnerhof
Similar hotels in the Dolomiti: Top 5-Star Luxury Hotels Dolomiti
